“Our family is a circle of strength and love. Founded on faith, joined in love, kept by God”. This sign, in a sort-of script like typography, is above the snack and chips rack in the back corner of the new location of Nolvi’s Deli and Market in Bedford Hills.

Having lived for many years in Southern California, anything Central American and Mexican was widely available and perhaps the best food you could get. Almost always affordable and easy, at one point I lived about 2 blocks from a street-side taco stand that would serve mostly “San Diego/Tijuana” tacos, burritos, etc..

Burritos with meat, beans, serve-yourself-salsa and onions and parsley; just hand it back to be wrapped. The wide grill was dark and seasoned, with piles of cabeza (head), lengua (tongue), or buche (stomach), in addition to the usual steak, chicken, al pastor. My personal favorite, suadero, is a kind of Mexico-city brisket. Steam pouring through the long line into the street, with cars flying past at high speeds on bumpy, pot-hole-stricken roads.

But while everyone in Northern Westchester seems to have an at-the-ready sandwich order, burritos are nowhere to be found. Maybe it’s turkey, cheddar, mayo, salt and pepper on a roll; roast beef and slaw, on a roll; bacon-egg-and-cheese, extra cheese, ketchup…on a roll; mozz[eralla], peppers, cutlet, again, roll. It’s a “hard roll” but it’s actually soft? The good ones are apparently baked somewhere in the Bronx every day and trucked up here, loaded into the back of delis early in the morning.

So, wanting a burrito, instead of a sandwich, excuse me, I find myself in Nolvi’s, a Guatemalan deli that largely serves off of a hot buffet/steam table for lunch: extensive chicken, rice, vegetables, beans, much more. Everyone else in line has the company credential of a landscaper, mason, or plumber on their long-sleeve shirt. In the back, they hand-make their flour tortillas. As I struggle to communicate, as an order is expected in Spanish, I’m able to successfully get across my desired Southern California inspired burrito ingredients: steak, onions, cilantro, beans.

Nolvi’s is open daily 6am til late, across from the train station, at 25-27 Depot Plaza, Bedford Hills, NY.